Wave model

Abstract: Addresses both fundamental and applied aspects of ocean waves including the use of wave observations made from satellites. More specifically it describes the WAM model, its scientific basis, its actual implementation, and its many applications. This model has been developed by an international group (the Wave Modelling group), and is based on a detailed physical description of air/sea interactions. It is widely used for wave forecasting for meteorological and oceanographic purposes. The three sections of the volume describe the basic statistical theory and the relevant physical processes; the numerical model and its global and regional applications; and satellite observations, their interpretation and use in data assimilation. Written by leading experts, it is a comprehensive guide and reference for researchers and advanced students in physical oceanography, meteorology, fluid dynamics, coastal engineering and physics.

Abstract: 1. Introduction 2. Observation techniques 3. Description of ocean waves 4. Statistics 5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) 6. Waves in oceanic waters 7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters) 8. Waves in coastal waters 9. The SWAN wave model Appendices References Index.

Abstract: A third-generation spectral wave model (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) for small-scale, coastal regions with shallow water, (barrier) islands, tidal flats, local wind, and ambient currents is verified in stationary mode with measurements in five real field cases. These verification cases represent an increasing complexity in two- dimensional bathymetry and added presence of currents. In the most complex of these cases, the waves propagate through a tidal gap between two barrier islands into a bathymetry of channels and shoals with tidal currents where the waves are regenerated by a local wind. The wave fields were highly variable with up to 3 orders of magnitude difference in energy scale in individual cases. The model accounts for shoaling, refraction, generation by wind, whitecapping, triad and quadruplet wave-wave interactions, and bottom and depth-induced wave breaking. The effect of alternative formulations of these processes is shown. In all cases a relatively large number of wave observations is available, including observations of wave directions. The average rms error in the computed significant wave height and mean wave period is 0.30 m and 0.7 s, respectively, which is 10% of the incident values for both.

Abstract: A numerical third-generation wave model dedicated both to deep water and nearshore applications is presented and applied to several test-cases to highlight its capabilities. Among its main features, this model uses a finite-elements technique for the discretization of the modelled area, which makes it suitable to represent complex bottom topographies and irregular shorelines. Furthermore, the piece-wise ray method used for wave propagation allows to use rather large time-steps, which in turn allows to keep the computational time at a very moderate level. The implementation of shallow-water physics in the model is also described, in particular with respect to depth-induced breaking. Several applications of the model are presented and compared to field or laboratory data for their validation. Finally, the main research and development items are mentioned and discussed.