TL;DR: In this article, a group of individuals for whom geographical identity is both terrestrial and littoral in constitution is studied, and the effect of this mobility on surfer identity is discussed.
Abstract: Geography emphasises the spatial influence on human identity; however, this influence is often seen as exclusively terrestrial in nature. This paper focuses on a group of individuals for whom geographical identity is both terrestrial and littoral in constitution. It introduces how surfers’ identities are not only defined by the terrestrial co-ingredience of the shores that support their surfing activity, but also by the littoral space of the surf zone itself. However, due to advances in transport, communication and surf forecasting, surfers are increasingly global in their search for waves. The paper goes on to demonstrate the effect of this mobility on surfer identity. It outlines how mobility dislocates surfer identity from its ‘surf-shore’ moorings and produces in its place a routed but rootless ‘trans-local’ surf identity. The paper examines the tensions and contradictions that arise between these spatially divided surfing practices before commenting on how surfers’ shared affiliation to the littoral zone may offer the potential to reconcile them.
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors examined the natural component of seasonality in surf tourism using survey responses collected globally, and analyzed how surfers report using forecasts to make travel decisis...
Abstract: This study examines the natural component of seasonality in surf tourism. Using survey responses collected globally, we first analyse how surfers report using forecasts to make travel decis...
TL;DR: In this paper, a wind-sea and swell separation approach was used to estimate the maxima swell height of the Taiwan coast ocean during a typhoon track in order to understand the relationship between typhoon tracks and generated swells.
Abstract: Waves that have propagated out of their generating fetch are called swell. Swell waves can significantly affect offshore structure designs, small boat operations and ship passages over harbor entrance, and surf forecasting. It is necessary and interesting to be studied on both scientific and practical purposes. There are several typhoons affect Taiwan every year. This paper estimates swell height by using a wind-sea and swell separation approach. The purpose of this paper is to understand the relationship between typhoon tracks and their generated swells. It is found that the value and occurrence time of maxima swell height are related to typhoon track. The maxima swell heights that generated by typhoons move westerly to Taiwan (track category I, III, V) is much larger than them generated by the typhoon moves from low to high latitude (track category VI). The maxima swell height estimated in this paper is up to 7 m. In addition, the maxima swell heights always occur after typhoon passing. In this study, it is also found that even the typhoon is far, the generated swell may have the same level as it generated by close typhoons. The results presented in this paper are obtained by analyzing the wave data from Taiwan coast ocean and may helpful on the prediction of typhoon swell.
TL;DR: Delft3D as mentioned in this paper is a comprehensive hydrodynamic modeling system capable of simulating hydrodynamical processes due to waves, tides, rivers, winds and coastal currents, but it does not produce the operational surf forecasting parameters as specified in the Joint Surf Manual.
Abstract: : The Delft3D modeling system, developed by Delft Hydraulics, is a comprehensive coastal hydrodynamic modeling system, capable of simulating hydrodynamic processes due to waves, tides, rivers, winds and coastal currents. Delft3D produces two-dimensional time-dependent forecasting output for many nearshore wave and flow parameters. But it does not produce the operational surf forecasting parameters as specified in the Joint Surf Manual. The standard surf parameters include maximum and significant breaker heights, breaker type statistics, percent of breaking, surf zone width, number of surf lines and modified surf index (MSI). Subroutines from Navy Standard Surf Model (SURF 3.2) are adapted and refined to compute these surf parameters from Delft3D output. This report describes input and output files and the software structure.
TL;DR: SPE^SURF as mentioned in this paper is a version of the Navy Standard Surf Model which allows users the option of generating surf forecasts based on WAM or Endeco Buoy directional wave spectra.
Abstract: : A version of the Navy Standard Surf Model has been developed which allows users the option of generating surf forecasts based on WAM or Endeco Buoy directional wave spectra. The software, identified as SPE^SURF (version 1.0 Jun 96), allows input of standard surf model wave parameters, Regional WAM directional wave spectra, Global WAM directional wave spectra, or Endecol YSI Type 1156 WAVETRACK Buoy System directional wave spectra. SPE^SURF has been tested using several Regional WAM spectra obtained from the Naval Oceanographic Office and several Endeco Buoy spectra obtained from the Naval Research Laboratory. This memorandum report documents model modifications to use these inputs.