TL;DR: In this article, the generation of tidal asymmetries is clarified via numerical integration of the one-dimensional equations for channel geometries characteristic of shallow estuaries, which are illustrated by modeling idealized representations of tidal channels at Nauset Inlet and Wachapreague Inlet, VA.
Abstract: The generation of tidal asymmetries is clarified via numerical integration of the one-dimensional equations for channel geometries characteristic of shallow estuaries. Channels without tidal flats develop a time asymmetry characterized by a longer falling than rising tide. This behavior is enhanced by strong friction and large channel cross-sectional area variability over a tidal cycle. Resulting tidal currents have a shorter, intense flood and a longer, weak ebb (flood-dominant). Addition of tidal flats to the channels can produce a longer rising tide and stronger ebb currents (ebb-dominant), if the area of tidal flats is large enough to overcome the effects of time-variable channel geometry. Weaker friction with flats can also produce this asymmetry. Despite the physical complexity of these systems, essential features of estuarine tidal response can be recovered from one-dimensional models. Shallow estuaries are shown to have a system response leading to stable, uniform senses of tidal asymmetry (either flood- or ebb-dominated, due to phase-locking of forced tidal constituents), with down-channel development in magnitude of asymmetry. These concepts are illustrated by modeling idealized representations of tidal channels at Nauset Inlet, MA, and Wachapreague Inlet, VA, which have flood- and ebb-dominance, respectively.
TL;DR: An overview of the rip current kinematics based on these observations and the scientific advances obtained from these efforts are synthesized in this article, where rip current flows are partitioned into mean, infragravity, very low frequency (vorticity), and tidal contributions, and it is found that each contributes significantly to the total.
TL;DR: In this article, the intertidal part of a sandbank was the subject of systematic observations of: (1) hydrographic properties, (2) the distribution and response pattern of various types of bedforms, and (3) the sedimentary structures produced.
Abstract: In the mesotidal (tidal range 3·5–4·9 m) Westerschelde estuary (The Netherlands) the intertidal part of a sandbank was the subject of systematic observations of: (1) hydrographic properties, (2) the distribution and response pattern of various types of bedforms, and (3) the sedimentary structures produced. Ebb and flood usually differ considerably in strength, giving rise to a clear dominance of one over the other, which may change over the neap-spring tide period. Parallel, long-crested sand-waves and irregular, short-crested dunes have a different response to the neap-spring variation in current velocity.
Because one tide (usually the flood in our area) predominated over the other, the internal structure largely consists of unidirectional cross-bedding, separated into a succession of tidal bundles, each formed during one tide. The tidal bundles are arranged in a lateral sequence reflecting neap-spring tide periods and differing in character with location.
Within the tidal bundle, reactivation, full vortex and slackening structures reflect acceleration, full stage and deceleration of flow respectively in the dominant tide. The full vortex structures tend to be well developed around spring tide but disappear towards neap tide. The subordinate tide carves ‘pause planes’ which enclose the tidal bundles. These pause planes are either erosional or depositional (mud).
TL;DR: Rip currents are defined as seaward-moving streaks of water which return the water carried landward by waves as discussed by the authors, and they reach velocities up to at least 2 miles an hour and extend on occasions for 1,000 feet or more from the shore.
Abstract: Rip currents are defined as seaward-moving streaks of water which return the water carried landward by waves. These currents are believed to be an almost universal accompaniment of large waves breaking on an exposed coast. Unlike the largely hypothetical undertow, rip currents flow principally at and near the surface. They attain velocities up to at least 2 miles an hour and extend on occasions for 1,000 feet or more from the shore. Geologically the currents are of importance, since they carry a suspended load of fine sediment out from the shore. Small channels in the sand are produced by the flow in the near-shore portions of the rip currents. The development and changes of these channels have been investigated. The strong outflow of the current and the presence of the channels along the bottom constitute a serious danger to inexperienced swimmers.
TL;DR: Rip current kinematics and beach morphodynamics were measured for 44 days at Sand City, Monterey Bay, CA using 15 instruments composed of co-located velocity and pressure sensors, acoustic Doppler current profilers, and kinematic GPS surveys as mentioned in this paper.