Hyperpigmentation

Abstract: SummaryBackground Cutaneous hyperpigmentation occurs in multiple conditions. In addition, many Asian women desire a lighter skin colour. Thus, there is a need for the development of skin lightening agents. Niacinamide is a possible candidate. Objectives To investigate the effects of niacinamide on melanogenesis in vitro and on facial hyperpigmentation and skin colour in vivo in Japanese women. Methods Melanin production was measured in a purified mushroom tyrosinase assay, cultured melanocytes, a keratinocyte/melanocyte coculture model, and a pigmented reconstructed epidermis (PREP) model. The clinical trials included 18 subjects with hyperpigmentation who used 5% niacinamide moisturizer and vehicle moisturizer in a paired design, and 120 subjects with facial tanning who were assigned to two of three treatments: vehicle, sunscreen and 2% niacinamide + sunscreen. Changes in facial hyperpigmentation and skin colour were objectively quantified by computer analysis and visual grading of high-resolution digital images of the face. Results Niacinamide had no effect on the catalytic activity of mushroom tyrosinase or on melanogenesis in cultured melanocytes. However, niacinamide gave 35–68% inhibition of melanosome transfer in the coculture model and reduced cutaneous pigmentation in the PREP model. In the clinical studies, niacinamide significantly decreased hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness compared with vehicle alone after 4 weeks of use. Conclusions The data suggest niacinamide is an effective skin lightening compound that works by inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes.

Abstract: Summary Background Melasma is a common acquired symmetrical hypermelanosis characterized by irregular light to dark brown macules and patches on sun-exposed areas of the skin. Its histopathological characteristics are not fully understood. Objectives To characterize the histopathological features of facial melasma skin in comparison with adjacent normal skin. Methods Biopsies were taken from both melasma lesional skin and adjacent perilesional normal skin in 56 Korean women with melasma. The sections were stained using haematoxylin and eosin, Fontana–Masson, diastase-resistant periodic acid-Schiff, Masson trichrome and Verhoeff–van Gieson stains, and immunostaining for melanocytes. Data on the changes in number of melanocytes and melanin contents of the epidermis were analysed by a computer-assisted image analysis program. The ultrastructure of the skin was also examined. Results The amount of melanin was significantly increased in all epidermal layers in melasma skin. The staining intensity and number of epidermal melanocytes increased in melasma lesions. Lesional skin showed more prominent solar elastosis compared with normal skin. Melanosomes increased in number and were more widely dispersed in the keratinocytes of the lesional skin. Lesional melanocytes had many more mitochondria, Golgi apparatus, rough endoplasmic reticulum and ribosomes in their cytoplasm. A dihydroxyphenylalanine reaction was apparent in the cisternae and vesicles of the trans-Golgi network in melanocytes from lesional skin. Conclusions Melasma is characterized by epidermal hyperpigmentation, possibly caused both by an increased number of melanocytes and by an increased activity of melanogenic enzymes overlying dermal changes caused by solar radiation.

Abstract: Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation is a common sequelae of inflammatory dermatoses that tends to affect darker skinned patients with greater frequency and severity. Epidemiological studies show that dyschromias, including postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, are among the most common reasons darker racial/ethnic groups seek the care of a dermatologist. The treatment of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation should be started early to help hasten its resolution and begins with management of the initial inflammatory condition. First-line therapy typically consists of topical depigmenting agents in addition to photoprotection including a sunscreen. Topical tyrosinase inhibitors, such as hydroquinone, azelaic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, and certain licorice extracts, can effectively lighten areas of hypermelanosis. Other depigmenting agents include retinoids, mequinol, ascorbic acid, niacinamide, N-acetyl glucosamine, and soy with a number of emerging therapies on the horizon. Topical therapy is typically effective for epidermal postinflammatory hyperpigmentation; however, certain procedures, such as chemical peeling and laser therapy, may help treat recalcitrant hyperpigmentation. It is also important to use caution with all of the above treatments to prevent irritation and worsening of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.