Edge wave

Abstract: Genetically, beach cusps are of at least two types: those linked with incident waves which are surging and mostly reflected (reflective systems) and those generated on beaches where wave breaking and nearshore circulation cells are important (dissipative systems). The spacings of some cusps formed under reflective wave conditions both in the laboratory and in certain selected natural situations are shown to be consistent with models hypothesizing formation by either (1) subharmonic edge waves (period twice that of the incident waves) of zero mode number or (2) synchronous (period equal to that of incident waves) edge waves of low mode. Experiments show that visible subharmonic edge wave generation occurs on nonerodable plane laboratory beaches only when the incident waves are strongly reflected at the beach, and this observation is quantified. Edge wave resonance theory and experiments suggest that synchronous potential edge wave generation can also occur on reflective beaches and is a higher-order, weaker resonance than the subharmonic type. In dissipative systems, modes of longshore periodic motion other than potential edge waves may be important in controlling the longshore scale of circulation cells and beach morphologies. On reflective plane laboratory beaches, initially large subharmonic edge waves rear-rage sand tracers into shapes which resemble natural beach cusps, but the edge wave amplitudes decrease as the cusps grow. Cusp growth is thus limited by negative feedback from the cusps to the edge wave excitation process. Small edge waves can form longshore periodic morphologies by providing destabilizing perturbations on a berm properly located in the swash zone. In this case the retreating incident wave surge is channelized into breeches in the berm caused by the edge waves, and there is an initially positive feedback from the topography to longshore periodic perturbations.

Abstract: The set of eigenfrequencies of a mechanical system forms its spectrum. A discussion is given of systems with discrete, continuous and mixed spectra. It is shown that resonance occurs at discrete points of the spectrum, and at cut-off frequencies (end-points of the continuous spectrum). The motion in a semi-infinite canal of finite width closed by a sloping beach has a mixed spectrum. The inviscid theory predicts that at a discrete frequency the resonance is confined to the neighbourhood of the beach (inviscid edge wave), while at a cutoff frequency the resonance extends a long way down the canal. The latter resonance is confined to the neighbourhood of the beach (viscous edge wave) by viscosity which is important near a cut-off frequency. Especially large resonances are predicted for a series of critical angles, of which the largest is 30°. The theory is verified experimentally in the frequency range 100 to 17c/min for the angles 37⋅6 and 29⋅5°.

Abstract: We investigate elastic periodic structures characterized by topologically nontrivial bandgaps supporting backscattering suppressed edge waves. These edge waves are topologically protected and are obtained by breaking inversion symmetry within the unit cell. Examples for discrete one and two-dimensional lattices elucidate the concept and illustrate parallels with the quantum valley Hall effect. The concept is implemented on an elastic plate featuring an array of resonators arranged according to a hexagonal topology. The resulting continuous structures have non-trivial bandgaps supporting edge waves at the interface between two media with different topological invariants. The topological properties of the considered configurations are predicted by unit cell and finite strip dispersion analyses. Numerical simulations demonstrate edge wave propagation for excitation at frequencies belonging to the bulk bandgaps. The considered plate configurations define a framework for the implementation of topological concepts on continuous elastic structures of potential engineering relevance.

Abstract: A three dimensional beach model applicable to open sandy coastal environments is presented. The model consists of ten beach stages incorporating erosional and accretionary sequences of beach-surfzone morphody-namic conditions. Each stage is associated with a particular level of breaker wave power. Decreasing breaker wave power produces spatially controlled onshore bar migration, eventual bar welding, beach accretion and reflective surfzone conditions ($$beach stages 6 \rightarrow 5 \rightarrow 4 \rightarrow 3 \rightarrow 2 \rightarrow 1$$). Increasing wave power generates beach erosion, dynamically controlled bar-channel formation and dissipative surfzone conditions (stages $$1 \rightarrow 2 \rightarrow 3 \rightarrow 4 \rightarrow 5 \rightarrow 6$$). Temporal variations in wave power cause predictable movement through and within the model. The effect of beach gradient (tan $$tan \beta$$) is considered with regard to the influence on the degree of dissipativeness, edge wave length and cut-off modes, and st...