Journal Article10.1029/JB073I008P02569
Wave ‘set-down’ and set-Up
430
TL;DR: In this article, the negative and positive changes in mean water level due to the presence of a train of surface waves, measured in a wave channel, were measured and the experimental results are in good agreement with the theoretical relationship determined by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.
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Abstract: ‘Set-down’ and set-up, the negative and positive changes in mean water level due to the presence of a train of surface waves, was measured in a wave channel. Well outside the break point the experimental results are in good agreement with the theoretical relationship determined by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart. Near the break point, where the wave height is greater than predicted by first-order wave theory, the measured ‘set-down’ was consistently less than theory would predict from the deep water wave height. Inside the break point the bore height was found to be a linear function of the mean water depth. In this region, the gradient of the set-up, , was related to the beach slope tan β and the mean ratio of wave height to water depth by the equation .
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References
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