The approaches for designing virtual garments may be categorised as ‘2D to 3D’ and ‘3D to 2D’. The former refers to draping flat digital pattern pieces on a virtual mannequin, and the later indicates the development of clothing design on a realistic body and subsequent flattening into 2D pattern pieces. Several computer-aided design (CAD) systems for garment visualisation in space from flat patterns have already been introduced into the clothing industry. Any industrial application of the pattern flattening technique is yet to be made, due to the non-availability of an appropriate CAD system on the market. This article reviews the historical developments of 3D CAD systems for the clothing industry, and assesses the features of currently available systems on market.

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3D CAD systems for the clothing industry

3D CAD Systems for the Clothing Industry

Garment development is an iterative process centred on patternmaking to resolve fit and production problems. Each time a sample garment is revised adds time and expense to garment development. Understanding the relationships among garment fit variables is essential to advancing the process of garment development especially with respect to programming computer-aided patternmaking systems accurately. Fit experts utilise their practical knowledge, but it is generally unrecorded, while patternmaking texts provide information on body-to-pattern variable relationships that is not well documented. Building patternmaking theory can ground the practice and lead to a better understanding of body-to-pattern relationships. This study compared published patternmaking specifications for ease, shaping devices and crotch curve shape against pants’ patterns custom-fit by experts for seven female participants of similar body size and age representing purposefully selected body shapes. In contrast to the singular directive ...

Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants

A novel resizable design platform to execute three-dimensional (3D) design and grading as well as pattern flattening of lower-body outerwear is developed. A set of Point-Cloud data, captured by a modern body-scanner is used as raw material to generate a virtual model, which is further sliced at pre-determined horizontal displacements to extract a set of sectional curves. The extracted curves are modified, made symmetrical as necessary, scaled and programmed to be linked with size databases before using them to generate a new surface, which forms a resizable design platform. It has been found to be possible to use the resizable design platform as a 3D drawing board for the creation of virtual trousers and shorts and for the execution of 3D grading and automatic pattern flattening within the environment ofan available computer-aided design system. Hence, the processes of fashion illustration and pattern creation maybe combined into a single step. As far as is known, such a resizable design platform for comb...

/pdf/resizable-trouser-template-for-virtual-design-and-pattern-42w6e11jh5.pdf

Resizable trouser template for virtual design and pattern flattening

A novel four-arc co-filter cathodic vacuum arc deposition technique which was optimized was introduced to deposit (AlCrMoTiV)Nx high-entropy alloy nitride films that were corrosion-resistant, high hardness and adhesion. The effect of nitrogen on the microstructure, corrosion resistance and mechanical properties of films was systematically investigated. As the N2 gas flow rate continues to increase, the phase structure of the (AlCrMoTiV)Nx films transforms from a body-centred cubic structure to an amorphous structure, and then to a nanocomposite structure with nano- crystallites embedded in the amorphous matrix. The hardness of the films is proportional to the ratio of N2:Ar and reaches maximum (34.08 GPa) at a ratio of 7:4. The adhesion of deposited films was higher than 20 N owing to the bombardment of the substrate by energetic ion beams during the deposition of coatings. The enhanced hardness at higher N contents is mainly gives rise to the combined effect of formation of strong metal‑nitrogen bonding, solid solution strengthening, the formation of the nanocomposite structure and ion beam assisted bombardment strengthening. Furthermore, the excellent corrosion resistance can be obtained by the (AlCrMoTiV)Nx films. 

Influence of N concentration on structure and properties of (AlCrMoTiV)Nx films by co-filter cathodic vacuum arc deposition

Purpose – Based on the knowledge of professional pattern makers, this paper aims to propose an expert‐based automation technique of darts generation by aligning and drawing close meshes in basic pattern in Part I. Single dart development, such as waist‐fitting dart, shoulder dart, armscye dart, side dart, and their select combination are also presented.Design/methodology/approach – In this paper, 3D garment surface is first approximated by a finite number of meshes. Patterns are developed by aligning and rotating of the flattened meshes under the constraint of overlay avoidance. The envelop areas between the developed patterns and the curved surface are dramatically reduced from 5 percent of basic pattern to below 3 percent after darts development.Findings – The development patterns are varied in their association with the subject's body figures and the designed garment. Darts in a different location can reduce the total area difference between the flattening undevelopable surface and the original curved ...

Expert‐based customized pattern‐making automation: Part II. Dart design

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to find the pattern with minimal deformation energy while developing from 3D designed garments. Moreover, darts are generated to further reduce deformation energy. The aims of the energy-based flattening method are to reduce the difference between 3D designed garments and 2D flattened patterns in an accurate and efficient way. Design/methodology/approach – This study uses a mass spring method and iterative optimization to analyze pattern contours with minimal contour deformation while flattening three dimensional draping designs into a plane. Darts are generated to further reduce distortion during surface flattening and the energy method is introduced to verify that the analysis results obtained match the garment darts provided by the Bunka formula which is currently widely used in East Asia. Findings – An efficient method for generating optimal darted pattern is presented. It compares the important factors of darts, including position, length and amount. After itera...

Energy-based optimal darted pattern for garment design

Distortions are inevitable when flattening is applied to an irregular surface. This study presents a meshing energy model and evaluates the energy variation between the 3D designed surface and the 2D flattened pattern in order to minimize the energy that arises from the development process. Base on expert knowledge, constraint optimization methods are used to find the unique pattern in its minimum deformation. This method is applied via simulation to some garment examples. Taking design and manufacturing conditions into consideration, the designed garments are flattened into patterns which have the least energy and area variation from the 3D designs.

Energy-Based Optimum Pattern Development for Garment Industry

Improvement of corrosion and wear resistance of novel Zr-Ti-Al-V alloy with high strength and toughness by thermal nitridation treatment

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Expert‐based customized pattern‐making automation: Part II. Dart design

Energy-based optimal darted pattern for garment design

Energy-Based Optimum Pattern Development for Garment Industry

Improvement of corrosion and wear resistance of novel Zr-Ti-Al-V alloy with high strength and toughness by thermal nitridation treatment