Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics.

For a few years, mineral oils and their potential adverse health effects have been a constant issue of concern in many regulatory areas such as food, cosmetics, other consumer products, and industrial chemicals. Analytically, two fractions can be distinguished: mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) and mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAH). This paper aims at assessing the bioaccumulative potential and associated histopathological effects of MOSH as well as the carcinogenic potential of MOAH for consumer-relevant mineral oils. It also covers the absorption, distribution, metabolism, and excretion of MOSH and MOAH upon oral and dermal exposures. The use and occurrence of consumer-relevant, highly refined mineral oils in food, cosmetics and medicinal products are summarized, and estimates for the exposure of consumers are provided. Also addressed are the challenges in characterizing the substance identity of mineral oil products under REACH. Evidence from more recent autopsy and biopsy studies, along with information on decreasing food contamination levels, indicates a low risk for adverse hepatic lesions that may arise from the retention of MOSH in the liver. With respect to MOAH, at present there is no indication of any carcinogenic effects in animals dermally or orally exposed to highly refined mineral oils and waxes. Such products are used not only in cosmetics but also in medicinal products and as additives in food contact materials. The safety of these mineral oil-containing products is thus indirectly documented by their prevalent and long-term use, with a simultaneous lack of clinical and epidemiological evidence for adverse health effects.

https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.1080/10408444.2019.1694862

Mineral oil in food, cosmetic products, and in products regulated by other legislations.

Norfloxacin loaded nano-cubosomes for enhanced management of otitis externa: In vitro and in vivo evaluation.

The advent of skin patch formulation design and technology has enabled the commercialisation of methyl salicylate (MS) as a topical patch. However, the most fundamental aspect of skin permeation is unknown at present. The study aims to investigate the effect of solvent choice on the skin permeation of MS in a neat solvent system and patch formulation with an emphasis on patch adhesion. MS in six selected solvents (propylene glycol (PG), Transcutol®, isopropyl myristate, Labrasol®, Plurol® oleique CC 497 and Maisine® CC) was characterised and in vitro permeation studies were also performed. An ATR-FTIR analysis on solvent-treated skin was conudcted. Patch formulation was prepared and characterised for adhesion, in vitro drug release and skin permeation studies. The highest MS permeation was found in neat PG over 24 h (~90 μg/cm2) due to its strong skin protein conformation effect. Transcutol® and isopropyl myristate showed better skin deposition and formulation retention, respectively. Nevertheless, PG enhanced the patch adhesion despite having a lower cumulative amount of MS permeated (~80 μg/cm2) as compared with Transcutol® and Maisine® (~110–150 μg/cm2). These two solvents, however, demonstrated better skin deposition and formulation retention but a lower patch adhesion. The unpredictable influence of the solvent on patch adhesion highlights the importance of the trade-off between patch adhesion and skin permeation during formulation design.

/pdf/development-and-characterisation-of-a-topical-methyl-1sao4byg.pdf

Development and Characterisation of a Topical Methyl Salicylate Patch: Effect of Solvents on Adhesion and Skin Permeation

Herein we studied the processes at the liquid aqueous interface at pH 7 and 8.5 during Thermomyces lanuginosus lipase-catalyzed hydrolysis of nanosized tri-, di- and mono-olein films deposited on a planar substrate. By employing a combination of ellipsometry, QCM-D and ATR-FTIR, we were able to reveal the physical properties of the thin films at high time resolution throughout the initial hydration and subsequent digestion, as well as the main chemical species present before and after lipolysis. The ATR-FTIR results showed that the degree of digestion and protonated state of the oleic acid produced in the reaction are highly dependent on the pH of the aqueous solvent. Furthermore, the ellipsometry and QCM-D results reveal that the duration of the lag phase observed before lipolysis was detected and the magnitude and type of changes to the physical properties of the thin films throughout digestion was influenced by whether the initial substrate consisted of tri-, di- or mono-olein.

/pdf/the-influence-of-ph-on-the-lipase-digestion-of-nanosized-1xm3g7og.pdf

The Influence of pH on the Lipase Digestion of Nanosized Triolein, Diolein and Monoolein Films

Objectives Petrolatum and soybean oil are common ingredients incorporated in topical skin formulations for skin protection and moisturization. However, the stratum corneum (SC) penetration kinetics of these two cosmetic ingredients has not been systematically studied. Glyceryl monooleate (GlyMOle) has been shown to enhance skin penetration of various compounds. It was hypothesized that GlyMOle could enhance skin penetration of petrolatum and soybean oil. This study aimed to examine the in vitro skin penetration of petrolatum and soybean oil in the presence or absence of GlyMOle. Methods Skin permeation experiments were conducted using the in vitro Franz diffusion cell model with split-thickness human skin and human epidermal membrane (HEM). The effect of permeant dose and the kinetics of permeant penetration were examined with and without GlyMOle in vitro. Results Petrolatum and soybean oil were found to permeate across HEM, and no effect of GlyMOle on skin permeation into the receptor chamber was observed. GlyMOle enhanced the penetration of petrolatum into the split-thickness skin at 50 μg dose (petrolatum:GlyMOle, 49 : 1, w/w). However, no effect of GlyMOle on petrolatum penetration was observed at 200 μg dose (of the same petrolatum:GlyMOle ratio), indicating a dose-dependent effect. GlyMOle at the level used in the study did not enhance the penetration of soybean oil with 50 and 200 μg doses at any timepoints. Conclusion GlyMOle was a skin penetration enhancer for petrolatum under the in vitro conditions identified in this study.

In vitro skin penetration of petrolatum and soybean oil and effects of glyceryl monooleate.

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In vitro skin penetration of petrolatum and soybean oil and effects of glyceryl monooleate.