The Scientific Committee on Cosmetic and Non-Food Products has identified 26 compounds that may cause contact allergy in consumers when present in concentrations above certain legal thresholds in a product. Twenty-four of these compounds are volatiles and can be analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) or electronic nose (e-nose) technologies. This manuscript first describes the use of the GC-MS approach to identify the main volatile compounds present in the original perfumes and their counterfeit samples. The second part of this work focusses on the ability of an e-nose system to discriminate between the original fragrances and their counterfeits. The analyses were carried out using the headspace of the aqueous solutions. GC-MS analysis revealed the identification of 10 allergens in the perfume samples, some of which were only found in the imitated fragrances. The e-nose system achieved a fair discrimination between most of the fragrances analyzed, with the counterfeit fragrances being clearly separated from the original perfumes. It is shown that associating the e-nose system to the appropriate classifier successfully solved the classification task. With Principal Component Analysis (PCA), the three first principal components represented 98.09% of the information in the database.

/pdf/detection-of-counterfeit-perfumes-by-using-gc-ms-technique-2osu2md3.pdf

Detection of Counterfeit Perfumes by Using GC-MS Technique and Electronic Nose System Combined with Chemometric Tools

Investigating the Effect of Dipropylene glycol and Mixed-surfactant Concentrations on Perfume Release

NCNR 2023 Annual Report

NCNR 2022 Annual Report

Mixed surfactants solutions containing volatile amphiphiles, e.g. fragrances, are envisaged to exhibit correlations between aggregation behavior, molecular interactions, composition of the mixed adsorbed layers and the concentration of the volatile component in the vapors. These issues are addressed with tensiometric methods by considering dynamic and steady-state interfacial adsorption-evaporation behavior at both sides of air-liquid interface in mixed solutions of geraniol and micelle-forming ionic and non-ionic surfactants. Pendant drop tensiometry proved to be a sensitive method in assessing the concentration of geraniol in the vapors above mixed solutions. Differences in the release of the fragrance from the mixed interfacial layers are explained by competitive contributions of specific barrier mechanisms and concentration-dependent aggregation in bulk solutions. Synergetic effect in reducing surface tension was evident for mixtures of geraniol with anionic sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and cationic dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide (DTAB) surfactants. Dynamic anti-synergetic effect in SDS-geraniol mixtures is attributed to strong aggregation behavior, which was found to hinder the evaporation of geraniol. Measurements of the headspace concentration indicated weak interactions between geraniol and micelles of non-ionic highly surface active Brij-35 surfactant. The presented results extend the traditional analytical toolbox for evaluating factors which affect the mass transfer of volatile organic amphiphiles between aqueous and gas phases. 

Tensiometry-based sensing of aggregation and of evaporation behavior of a volatile amphiphile in mixed solutions with ionic and nonionic surfactants

Personal care products commonly contain perfume mixtures, consisting of numerous perfume raw materials (PRMs), and cosolvents. The lipophilicity and structure of an individual PRM is known to affect its localization within the surfactant self-assembly as well as the micellar geometry. However, because multiple PRMs are used in formulations, significant intermolecular interactions between the PRMs and between the PRMs and the surfactant tail may also influence the location of the PRMs and their effects on the self-assembly. Herein, two anionic/zwitterionic mixed-surfactant systems (sodium trideceth-2 sulfate (ST2S)/cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) and sodium laureth-3 sulfate/CAPB) were formulated with a cosolvent (dipropylene glycol (DPG)) and 12 PRMs of varying structures and lipophilicities. This 12 PRM accord is simpler than a fully formulated perfume but more complex than a single perfume molecule. The geometric variations in the self-assemblies were evaluated using small-angle neutron scattering, perfume head space concentrations were determined using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, and perfume localization was identified using NMR spectroscopy. The addition of the perfume accord caused enlargement of the micelles in both surfactant systems, with a greater change observed for ST2S/CAPB formulations. Furthermore, the addition of DPG to ST2S/CAPB resulted in micelle shrinkage. The micelle geometries and PRM localization in the micelles were affected by the degree of branching in the surfactant tail.

/pdf/structural-alterations-of-branched-versus-linear-mixed-1wkaoqko.pdf

Structural alterations of branched versus linear mixed-surfactant micellar systems with the addition of a complex perfume mixture and dipropylene glycol as cosolvent

Bicycle use in national parks.

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Structural alterations of branched versus linear mixed-surfactant micellar systems with the addition of a complex perfume mixture and dipropylene glycol as cosolvent

Investigating the Effect of Dipropylene glycol and Mixed-surfactant Concentrations on Perfume Release

Bicycle use in national parks.