One of the most common approaches for control of skin pigmentation involves the inhibition of tyrosinase, a copper-containing enzyme which catalyzes the key steps of melanogenesis. This review focuses on the tyrosinase inhibition properties of a series of natural and synthetic, bioinspired phenolic compounds that have appeared in the literature in the last five years. Both mushroom and human tyrosinase inhibitors have been considered. Among the first class, flavonoids, in particular chalcones, occupy a prominent role as natural inhibitors, followed by hydroxystilbenes (mainly resveratrol derivatives). A series of more complex phenolic compounds from a variety of sources, first of all belonging to the Moraceae family, have also been described as potent tyrosinase inhibitors. As to the synthetic compounds, hydroxycinnamic acids and chalcones again appear as the most exploited scaffolds. Several inhibition mechanisms have been reported for the described inhibitors, pointing to copper chelating and/or hydrophobic moieties as key structural requirements to achieve good inhibition properties. Emerging trends in the search for novel skin depigmenting agents, including the development of assays that could distinguish between inhibitors and potentially toxic substrates of the enzyme as well as of formulations aimed at improving the bioavailability and hence the effectiveness of well-known inhibitors, have also been addressed.

https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/6/4/57/pdf

Natural and Bioinspired Phenolic Compounds as Tyrosinase Inhibitors for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation: Recent Advances

Targeting Tyrosinase in Hyperpigmentation: Current Status, Limitations and Future Promises.

MicroRNAs (miRNAs) are endogenous small non-coding RNA molecules that regulate the gene expression at a post-transcriptional level and participate in maintaining the correct cell homeostasis and functioning. Different specific profiles have been identified in lesional skin from autoimmune cutaneous diseases, and their deregulation cause aberrant control of biological pathways, contributing to pathogenic conditions. Detailed knowledge of microRNA-affected pathways is of crucial importance for understating their role in skin autoimmune diseases. They may be promising therapeutic targets with novel clinical implications. They are not only present in skin tissue, but they have also been found in other biological fluids, such as serum, plasma and urine from patients, and therefore, they are potential biomarkers for the diagnosis, prognosis and response to treatment. In this review, we discuss the current understanding of the role of described miRNAs in several cutaneous autoimmune diseases: psoriasis (Ps, 33 miRNAs), cutaneous lupus erythematosus (CLE, 2 miRNAs) and atopic dermatitis (AD, 8 miRNAs). We highlight their role as crucial elements implicated in disease pathogenesis and their applicability as biomarkers and as a novel therapeutic approach in the management of skin inflammatory diseases.

https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4409/9/12/2656/pdf

MicroRNAs in Several Cutaneous Autoimmune Diseases: Psoriasis, Cutaneous Lupus Erythematosus and Atopic Dermatitis.

Fragaria vesca L. (F. vesca), popularly known as wild strawberry, is a plant from the Rosaceae family, found in temperate and subtropical areas of the northern hemisphere. F. vesca leaves have been shown to have antiseptic, emollient, and dermatological protection properties, due to the presence of bioactive compounds, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, ellagitannins, and proanthocyanidins. In this study, a F. vesca extract was obtained by an optimized extraction process, and was characterized by HPLC, ROS scavenging activity, cytotoxicity assays in HaCaT cells, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity determination. The most active extract was then incorporated in a hydrogel with hydroxyethylcellulose at 2% (w/w), which was characterized at the physicochemical, stability, cytotoxicity, and ROS scavenging activity levels to evaluate its quality, safety, and efficacy. In vivo studies, human repeat insult patch testing, and an assay to determine their antioxidant efficacy, were also performed. The results showed that the Fragaria vesca extracts had antioxidant activity and that the F. vesca extract-based hydrogel exhibited cutaneous compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy, being stable, and suitable for topical application.

https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/9/2/154/pdf

Fragaria vesca L. Extract: A Promising Cosmetic Ingredient with Antioxidant Properties.

Integrated microRNA/mRNA expression profiling of the skin of psoriasis patients.

A topical composition according to the present invention for use in a skin care regimen that provides matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibiting activity, tissue inhibitor of metalloprotease (TIMP) inducing activity, and immediate and delayed antioxidative activity. Preferably, the topical composition comprises at least one MMP inhibitor, a TIMP inducing agent, Tremella fuciformis (snow fungus) extract, Camellia sinensis (green tea) leaf extract, and Eugenia caryophyllus (clove) extract. The compositions are useful in anti-wrinkle and anti-aging products, providing elasticity, firmness, tone and texture to the skin, ameliorating fine lines and preventing skin damage.

Topical compositions for inhibiting matrix metalloproteases and providing antioxidative activities

Anti-melanogenic activity of ellagitannin casuarictin in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells.

An extract of the marine algae, Sarcodiotheca, and more particularly Sarcodiotheca gaudichaudii, is described for use in cosmetic compositions. A biofermentation of Sarcodiotheca, such as for example S. gaudichaudii, is also described. This marine bioferment is useful as a skin care active ingredient for anti-aging cosmetic applications, and particularly useful when used in combination with an extracts of red algae, such as Chondrus crispus.

Marine extracts and biofermentations for use in cosmetics

A skin care active complex in accordance with an embodiment of the invention comprises a combination of (1) from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.001% to about 5% by weight, of a vitamin A derivative; (2) from about 0.00001% to about 10% by weight of a hydroxamate derivative; (3) from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of an anti-inflammatory natural compound; and optionally, (1) from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of vitamin K.

Skin care active complex and methods of using same

A skin care composition which comprises one or more K vitamins in an amount of from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight, one or more vitamin A derivatives in an amount of about 0.001% to about about 5% by weight, one or more hydroxamate derivatives in an amount of about 0.00001% to about 10% by weight, and one or more natural anti-inflammatory compounds in an amount of about 0.01% by weight. about 5% by weight, products containing it and processes using it.

Skin care composition useful to prevent wrinkles and to treat acne comprises vitamin K, vitamin A derivatives, hydroxamate derivatives and natural anti-inflammatory compounds drugs

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