The pH plays an important physiological role in nature and humans. pH varies from 1 to 8 in human organs with tight regulation in blood and epithelia of barrier organs. The physiological pH of the stratum corneum is 4.1-5.8 and several mechanisms contribute to its formation: filaggrin degradation, fatty acid content, sodium-hydrogen exchanger (NHE1) activation and melanosome release. First, the acidic pH of the stratum corneum was considered to present an antimicrobial barrier preventing colonization (e.g. by Staphylococcus aureus and Malassezia). Later on, it was found that the pH influences skin barrier function, lipid synthesis and aggregation, epidermal differentiation and desquamation. Enzymes of ceramide metabolism (e.g. β-glucocerebrosidase or acid sphingomyelinase) as well as proteases (e.g. chymotryptic enzyme or cathepsin D linked to epidermal differentiation and desquamation) are regulated by the pH. Experimental disruption of the physical barrier leads to an increase of pH, returning to normal levels only after many hours. Inflammatory skin diseases and diseases with an involvement of the epidermis exhibit a disturbed skin barrier and an increased pH. This is known for atopic dermatitis, irritant contact dermatitis, ichthyosis, rosacea and acne, but also for aged and dry skin. Normalizing the pH by acidification through topical treatment helps to establish a physiological microbiota, to repair skin barrier, to induce epidermal differentiation and to reduce inflammation.

pH in nature, humans and skin.

The complex structure of human skin and its physicochemical properties turn it into an efficient outermost defence line against exogenous factors, and help maintain homeostasis of the human body. This role is played by the epidermal barrier with its major part - stratum corneum. The condition of the epidermal barrier depends on individual and environmental factors. The most important biophysical parameters characterizing the status of this barrier are the skin pH, epidermal hydration, transepidermal water loss and sebum excretion. The knowledge of biophysical skin processes may be useful for the implementation of prophylactic actions whose aim is to restore the barrier function.

https://www.termedia.pl/Journal/-7/pdf-24287-10?filename=Structural and biophysical.pdf

Structural and biophysical characteristics of human skin in maintaining proper epidermal barrier function.

Acidic pH of the skin surface has been recognized as a regulating factor for the maintenance of the stratum corneum homeostasis and barrier permeability. The most important functions of acidic pH seem to be related to the keratinocyte differentiation process, the formation and function of epidermal lipids and the corneocyte lipid envelope, the maintenance of the skin microbiome and, consequently, skin disturbances and diseases. As acknowledged extrinsic factors that affect skin pH, topically applied products could contribute to skin health maintenance via skin pH value control. The obtained knowledge on skins’ pH could be used in the formulation of more effective topical products, which would add to the development of the so-called products ‘for skin health maintenance’. There is a high level of agreement that topical products should be acidified and possess pH in the range of 4 to 6. However, formulators, dermatologists and consumers would benefit from some more precise guidance concerning favorable products pH values and the selection of cosmetic ingredients which could be responsible for acidification, together with a more extensive understanding of the mechanisms underlaying the process of skin acidification by topical products.

https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/3/69/pdf

Towards Optimal pH of the Skin and Topical Formulations: From the Current State of the Art to Tailored Products

Several epidermal barrier functions, like skin barrier regeneration and antimicrobial response, are related to the acidic nature of the skin surface pH (ss-pH). However, the epidermal acidification is known to be fragile and it is commonly accepted that cosmetic products, especially soaps and skin cleansing products, can induce significant changes in ss-pH. As a consequence, epidermal barrier function and skin microflora are affected negatively. ss-pH even increases after a single washing procedure or after rinsing the skin with water alone. The skin pH recovery needs time up to several hours before it can reach the physiological level. For cosmetic-relevant skin conditions, skin disorders and specific consumer groups, maintaining of the acidic ss-pH is beneficial for epidermal physiology and cutaneous microflora. In this context, cleansing and skin care products with a pH level of 4.0-5.0 may be helpful. In addition, combining the acidic product pH level with the ideal mix of surfactants, thereby enhancing product compatibility and minimizing skin irritation and intolerance, is a major challenge for the future. Beyond innovative cleansing technology, further multifaceted cosmetic research is a prerequisite to get deeper knowledge on the interrelation of product pH level, surfactant composition and corneobiology.

The Relation of pH and Skin Cleansing.

Sunscreens are destined to topical application and should protect skin against ultraviolet radiation; furthermore, they are toxic substances and should not reach the bloodstream, so they must be retained in the skin. In the present work, an oil-in-water photoprotective and antioxidant nanoemulsion (NE) containing chitosan was developed. Preliminary studies were performed aiming to choose the surfactant to be used in this NE; stability of the formulas was determined by dynamic light scattering after their preparation and after 7 days. A blend of surfactants, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate, and sorbitan monooleate was selected for the preparation of the NE, as well as the following organic sunscreens: benzophenone-3, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate, octocrylene and octylmethoxycinnamate, and also pomegranate antioxidant extract and chitosan. The antioxidant extract with the highest antioxidant activity was chosen based on a screening of plant extracts by DPPH• (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) assay. Photostability of the sunscreens and in vitro efficacy and safety of the formulations were also evaluated. Results showed that the developed photoprotective and antioxidant NE containing chitosan was stable for at least 6 months, photostable when irradiated in a solar simulator, and effective. Additionally, chitosan acted by promoting retention of the formulation in epidermis, thus increasing formulation safety.

Development of a photoprotective and antioxidant nanoemulsion containing chitosan as an agent for improving skin retention

Characterization of the skin's natural state is very important for understanding skin functions and describing disturbances of skin function. In the field of cosmetics and dermatologicals the natural pH of the skin surface plays an important role in the development of products with a skin neutral pH. In a multicenter study the natural pH of the skin surface (exception of underarm and genital areas), was to be measured. It was to be determined whether gender-specific differences in the pH occur. The skin surface pH was measured on the inside of the forearms in 222 volunteers (147 female, 75 male) using the skin pH meters of the respective institutes. The pH was measured in triplicate on adjacent areas 24 h after the last contact of the measuring site with water, topical applications and an intensive washing procedure. The values of the skin surface pH were 4.9 (arithmetic mean). The 95% interval was between 4.1 and 5.8. The pH on the forearm of the male volunteers was slightly lower than that of the females. The difference was statistically significant (p < 0.01; 4.8 to 5.0). The authors suggest that the GDCh recommendations for the claims »skin neutral pH«, »ideal pH« or »skin-friendly pH« should be revised and propose a pH range of 4.1 to 5.8 for the main body areas excluding the underarm and genital areas.

Multicenter study on measurement of the natural pH of the skin surface

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Multicenter study on measurement of the natural pH of the skin surface