Skin lipids in health and disease: A review

Guided by ethical considerations and regulatory requirements such as the 7th Amendment to the European Cosmetics Directive N° 1223/2009, the cosmetic industry has developed and evaluated alternative test strategies such as in vitro assays, in silico approaches for toxicological endpoints and efficacy of cosmetic products and cosmetics ingredients. In consequence, the European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM) has proposed a list of validated cell‐based in vitro models for predicting the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients. These models have been demonstrated as valuable and effective tools to overcome the limitations of animal in vivo studies. For example, 3D human skin equivalent models are used to evaluate skin irritation potential; and excised human skin is used as the gold standard for the evaluation of dermal absorption.

Alternative in vitro models used in the main safety tests of cosmetic products and new challenges

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdfdirect/10.1111/exd.14645

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The study of human skin represents an important area of research and development in dermatology, toxicology, pharmacology and cosmetology, in order to assess the effects of exogenous agents, their interaction, their absorption mechanism, and/or their toxicity towards the different cutaneous structures. The processes can be parameterised by mathematical models of diffusion, of varying degrees of complexity, and are commonly measured by Franz cell diffusion, in vitro , and tape stripping, in vitro or in vivo , techniques which are recognised by regulatory bodies for commercialisation of dermally applied products. These techniques do not directly provide chemically specific measurement of the penetration and/or permeation of formulations in situ , however. Raman microspectroscopy provides a non-destructive, non-invasive and chemically specific methodology for in vitro , and in vivo investigations, in-situ , and can provide a powerful alternative to the current gold standard methods approved by regulatory bodies. This review provides an analysis of the current state of art of the field of monitoring dermal penetration and permeation kinetics of topical products, in vitro and in vivo , as well as the regulatory requirements of international guidelines governing them. It furthermore outlines developments in the analysis of skin using Raman microspectroscopy, towards the most recent demonstrations of quantitative monitoring of the penetration and permeation kinetics of topical products in situ , for in vitro and in vivo applications, before discussing the challenges and future perspectives of the field. • Raman spectroscopy for analysis of dermal penetration and permeation is reviewed. • The anatomy of skin barrier function is summarised. • Legislative guidelines are outlined. • Currently employed in vivo and in vitro methods are reviewed. • The steps required for validation of in situ Raman microspectroscopy are considered. 

Monitoring dermal penetration and permeation kinetics of topical products; the role of Raman microspectroscopy

Reconstructed human epidermis models are used as epidermis alternatives in skin research studies. It is necessary to provide molecular and functional characterization in order to assess these models. Our aim is to establish a link between the barrier function and the structure and composition of the stratum corneum using several complementary techniques. The following three studies were performed on reconstructed human epidermis during the keratinocyte differentiation process: (i) caffeine percutaneous penetration kinetics, (ii) epidermis thickness measurement, stratum corneum formation and lipid organization by Raman microspectroscopy and (iii) lipid composition evolution by liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry. The results demonstrated that the caffeine penetration decreased along the differentiation process. Raman in-depth images demonstrated an increase in stratum corneum and RHE thickness accompanied by the evolution of lipid organization. Lipid analysis showed an increase of the ceramide amount and an inverse relationship between ceramide and its precursor levels during the differentiation process. Different behaviors between several ceramide subclasses are highlighted and they relied on the corresponding differentiation stages. The generation of the most important ceramides for the barrier function is closely followed. A period shift between lipid generation and their organization was found. Our analytical data allowed identifying the following 3 groups of maturation days: before day 15, between days 15 and 19, and after day 19. The chemical and physiological states of the barrier function for each group are described thanks to a multimodal approach.

Assessment of the skin barrier function in the reconstructed human epidermis using a multimodal approach at molecular, tissue and functional levels.

Stratum corneum lipids are responsible for the skin's barrier function. They are the final product of epidermis lipid biosynthesis. During this process, lipids evolve from simple to complex structures in three main levels respectively (stratum basal level, stratum granulosum level, and stratum corneum level). Our aim was to simultaneously analyze and characterize the structure of total epidermis lipids. A powerful analytical method (normal-phase liquid chromatography coupled with high-resolution mass spectrometry (NPLC/HR-MSn)) was developed in order to separate, in a single run, lipid classes with a wide polarity range. Chromatographic conditions were particularly designed to analyze lipids of intermediate polarity such as ceramides. Rich information was obtained about the molecular structure of keratinocyte differentiation biomarkers such as ceramides, glucosylceramides, and sphingomyelins and the microstructures of reconstructed human epidermis lipids using HR-MSn. A new subclass of ceramides, 1-O-Acyl Omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer] has been highlighted. This class is double esterified on the 1-O-position of sphingoid base with long to very long chain acyl residues (1-O-E) and on the position of ω-hydroxyl group of fatty acid with the linolenic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. In addition, we detected a new epidermis sphingomyelins. Our lipidomic approach offers a direct access to epidermis biomarkers.

Comprehensive characterization and simultaneous analysis of overall lipids in reconstructed human epidermis using NPLC/HR-MSn: 1-O-E (EO) Cer, a new ceramide subclass

From the basal layer until the stratum corneum, lipid and protein biomarkers associated with morphological changes denote keratinocyte differentiation and characterize each epidermis layer. Herein, we followed keratinocyte differentiation in the early stages using HaCaT cells over a period of two weeks by two complementary analytical techniques: Raman microspectroscopy and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with high resolution mass spectrometry. A high concentration of calcium in the medium induced HaCaT cell differentiation in vitro. The results from both techniques underlined the keratinocyte passage from the granular layer (day 9) to the stratum corneum layer (day 13). After 13 days of differentiation, we observed a strong increase in the lipid content, decrease in proteins, decrease in DNA, and a decrease in glucosylceramides/ceramides and sphingomyelins/ceramides ratios.

Biomolecular modifications during keratinocyte differentiation: Raman spectroscopy and chromatographic techniques

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Assessment of the skin barrier function in the reconstructed human epidermis using a multimodal approach at molecular, tissue and functional levels.

Comprehensive characterization and simultaneous analysis of overall lipids in reconstructed human epidermis using NPLC/HR-MSn: 1-O-E (EO) Cer, a new ceramide subclass

Biomolecular modifications during keratinocyte differentiation: Raman spectroscopy and chromatographic techniques