A theoretical model is developed for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. In the time averaged equations of energy and momentum the energy flux, radiation stress and energy dissipation are determined by simple approximations which include the surface roller in the breaker. Comparison with measurements shows good agreement. Also the transitions immediately after breaking are analysed and shown to be in accordance with the above mentioned ideas and results.

/pdf/wave-heights-and-set-up-in-a-surf-zone-39q6lqmhg5.pdf

Wave Heights and Set-up in a Surf Zone

The breaking probability is investigated for the dominant surface waves observed in three geographically diverse natural bodies of water: Lake Washington, the Black Sea, and the Southern Ocean. The breaking probability is taken as the average number of breaking waves passing a fixed point per wave period. The data covered a particularly wide range of dominant wavelengths (3–300 m) and wind speeds (5–20 m s−1). In all cases, the wave breaking events were detected visually. It was found that the traditional approach of relating breaking probability to the wind speed or wave age provided reasonable correlations within individual datasets, but when the diverse datasets are combined, these correlations are significantly degraded. Motivated by the results of recent computational studies of breaking onset in wave groups, the authors investigated the hypothesis that nonlinear hydrodynamic processes associated with wave groups are more fundamental to the process of breaking than previously advocated aerod...

Breaking Probability for Dominant Waves on the Sea Surface

The shallow waters of the nearshore ocean are popular, dynamic, and often hostile. Prediction in this domain is usually limited less by our understanding of the physics or by the power of our models than by the availability of input data, such as bathymetry and wave conditions. It is a challenge for traditional in situ instruments to provide these inputs with the appropriate temporal or spatial density or at reasonable logistical or financial costs. Remote sensing provides an attractive alternative. We discuss the range of different sensors that are available and the differing physical manifestations of their interactions with the ocean surface. We then present existing algorithms by which the most important geophysical variables can be estimated from remote sensing measurements. Future directions and opportunities will depend on expected developments in sensors and platforms and on improving processing algorithms, including data assimilation formalisms.

/pdf/remote-sensing-of-the-nearshore-p91ty1uz8j.pdf

Remote Sensing of the Nearshore

This paper extends our previous study of the breaking probability of dominant deep water gravity surface waves into the finite water depth environment. It reports a unified behavior of the mean breaking statistics once the effects of finite water depth are taken into account. The shallow water wave data that form the basis of this study were acquired at a field experiment site at Lake George, New South Wales, Australia. The breaking events were detected through visual observation of videotaped records of the wave field in combination with acoustic signatures of the breaking waves from a collocated hydrophone. Following Banner et al. [2000], we argue that when constant finite depth bottom influence is operative, nonlinear hydrodynamical effects associated with energy and momentum fluxes within deforming wave groups remain the primary determinant of breaking onset. This underpins our proposed finite depth water parameterization for the environmental dependence of dominant wave breaking probability, given by the average number of breakers passing a fixed point per dominant wave period. The additional influence of bottom interaction with the wind drift current shear and wind forcing are also included in our finite constant depth formulation. This is a natural extension of our recently proposed deep water dependence and reduces to it as the significant wave height becomes much smaller than the water depth. In common with the deep water case we propose that there exists a threshold of the significant peak steepness below which negligible dominant wave breaking occurs. The available data show encouraging agreement with our proposed dependence, with a correlation coefficient approaching 0.9.

/pdf/breaking-probabilities-for-dominant-surface-waves-on-water-361rr0kv8f.pdf

Breaking probabilities for dominant surface waves on water of finite constant depth

A passive acoustic method of detecting breaking waves of different scales has been developed. The method also showed promise for measuring breaking severity. Sounds were measured by a subsurface hydrophone in various wind and wave states. A video record of the surface was made simultaneously. Individual sound pulses corresponding to the many individual bubble formations during wave-breaking events typically last only a few tens of milliseconds. Each time a sound-level threshold was exceeded, the acoustic signal was captured over a brief window typical of a bubble formation pulse, registering one count. Each pulse was also analyzed to determine the likely bubble size generating the pulse. Using the time series of counts and visual observations of the video record, the sound-level threshold that detected bubble formations at a rate optimally discriminating between breaking and nonbreaking waves was determined by a classification-accuracy analysis. This diagnosis of breaking waves was found to be ap...

https://journals.ametsoc.org/doi/pdf/10.1175/JTECH1853.1

Passive Acoustic Determination of Wave-Breaking Events and Their Severity across the Spectrum

Ambient noise in the surf zone, in the frequency range 120 Hz to 5 kHz, was recorded using a broad-band hydrophone, located approximately 1 m above bottom and 1-2 m below the mean sea surface. The predominant source of this noise is breaking waves. Analysis of simultaneous land-based video observations of the sea surface in the region of the hydrophone, along with wave height data, reveals quantitative correlation between wave-breaking events and the hydrophone signal. In energetic surf, locally breaking waves appear as discrete events in the ambient noise spectra. Distant breaking events do not appear to be detected, as distinct events above the ambient background noise, by the hydrophone. The noise events associated with local breakers are characterized by an asymmetry in the time envelope: low frequencies (less than 500 Hz) are observed leading the breaking crest, followed by a broader range of frequencies peaking in intensity with the passage of the wave crest above the hydrophone, and then decreasing abruptly at all frequencies. Low frequencies are generally not observed trailing the breaking wave. The detection by the hydrophone of breaking waves in the immediate vicinity implies that ambient noise in heavy surf provides a means of studying breaking-wave statistics in the surf zone in situ: in particular, the frequency of occurrence of local breaking.

Ambient noise in the natural surf zone: wave-breaking frequencies

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Ambient noise in the natural surf zone: wave-breaking frequencies